London Fashion Week Men’s: Day Three Review
The final day of LFWM came round too quick for some and is a que to rest for others. Taking to London Fashion Week Men’s for the last time this season featured collections from Craig Green, Per Götesson, Belstaff, Blood Brother, Nicolas Daley, A-Cold-Wall*, Jordan Luca, Bobby Abley and Paria Farzaneh.
Craig Green A/W18
Central Saint Martin fashion masters course graduate Craig Green showcased his A/W18 collection today and gave us an insight to his magical and ever creative mind, combining adventurous story-telling
This seasons show displayed both commercial and free spirited garments consisting of typically ‘Green’ string draped and patchwork torso and trousers finished with impeccable tailoring. The free-spirited looks that walked were evident from second the models entered. Models strutted down the catwalk with wooden frames attached with nylon plastics and portrayed D.I.Y artwork. Craig Green having being twice voted menswear designer of the year, his logic and decision making to construct both abstract and contemporary pieces (see Moncler x Craig Green) still lays a mere mystery. Here below is the Autumn/Winter menswear collection from Craig Green.
With its rich and in depth heritage, Belstaff lays its head under recent British ownership, commemorating its 70th anniversary of the iconic Trialmaster jacket. Initially designed to give the numerous terrain motorcyclist a fashionable yet practical four pocketed, wax cotton jacket and protection against the 1948 Scottish six day trials. Belstaff revealed an archive of the Trialmaster jacket at its LFWM platform, taking those who’ve taken undoubtable interest an evolution of the jacket from 1948 to this present day. Delphine Ninous collected influence from the infamous jacket to inspire her A/W18 collection including historical memories British culture and it’s constant changing shape. Located at Soho’s vinyl factory and soundtracks by loved Britons ‘The Clash’ and ‘The Streets’ Here below is Belstaff A/W18 by Delphine Ninous.
Blood Brother A/W18
Flash and proud was a feeling felt at today’s blood brother AW18 collection runway show. Blood Brother contributing to the wardrobes of fashionable style icons, music artists and the self-expressing public, it’s runway show soundtrack being Madonna’s “Lucky Star” the glamorous atmosphere was set with designs showing screaming attitude, 80’s inspired metallic gold, uncomplimentary snakeskin and gangster aesthetics.
The collection was a credit to collaborating minds as joining Swarovski on fur and denim pieces and Italian heavyweight Jimmy Choo on four new footwear silhouettes throughout the show. In conclusion, the collection also had a fun and playful reference with knitwear and active jackets having slogans “It Could Be You” and “Money Bags” also continuing its luxurious influences.
A-Cold-Wall* founder and creative director Samuel Ross’ individual postmodern designs founded on the influence of working-class Britain, it’s delicate surrounding environments, construction site colour pallets, took to the BFC show space with an avant-garde, pioneering and truly unique runway show.
This seasons runway remained up there with the most anticipated shows of week, dare I say collection of the year. Sleeveless chrome hoods, mixtures of orange, deep reds, neutral beige and 50 shades of grey wool hand threaded, technical nylon overcoats, hoods, tracksuit bottoms and outdoor active wear inhabiting thermoactive properties. Futuristic, technical and minimal aspects infused into the a-cold-wall* image and furthermore seen in the labels contemporary catwalk pieces, this gave emphasis to the vision that Samuel Ross is successfully achieving. It’s collection being titled “National Gallery ROOM-1*” born from aspirational design thought processing, here below displayed is the A-Cold-Wall* Autumn/Winter 18
Jordan Luca A/W18
Menswear designers Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto’s Inevitably named ‘Jordan Luca’ label in where they collaboratively tackle the normal and traditional perceptions of contemporary menswear took a place in the LFWM Newgen showrooms and hosted a presentation for London Fashion Week caused an influx of attention leading to increased Luca orientated conversation.
The combination of London’s coarse environments and it’s rich Italian heritage was demonstrated in the presentation where models took podiums modelling the autumn winter collection named “ANGRY/STAFFY”.
The array of garments included plaid overcoats styled with cropped hoods with extensive drawstrings, all over prints with grey and white Japanese themed ocean wave graphics seen in a paired track top and track bottoms. A merging of formal and street aesthetics have been a repetitive look this season yet Jordan Luca executed a matching grey plaid tracksuit where a identical blazer was layered over the formal athletic tracksuit.
Below shows images of Jordan Luca “ANGRY/STAFFY” Autumn/Winter collection.
Bobby Abley A/W18
Appropriately titled “Bobbyland” was the name for Ravensbourne college graduate Bobby Abely’s runway show exploring the playful, childish animations from Warner Bros ‘Looney Tunes’ by sending models down the runway displaying animation graphics with a literal character vision. Furry yellow Tunes character Tweety Pie made an appearance being constructed from Marabou feathers surrounding the canary bird’s face in the lower centre torso, Buggs Bunny referenced grey fur dungarees styled with a black and white plaid shirt with bunny ears that really finished the look fittingly. This fun collection delivered attitude and was reminiscent of the childhood for many of us adults living in an adult world. Here’s the wonderful looks from Bobby Abley A/W18.
Paria Farzaneh A/W18
Situated in-between West London’s Bayswater and Queensway underground stations, Menswear designer Paria Farzaneh hosted her AW18 collection in her favourite Iranian restaurant, Little Persia. Creating the perfect setting for Farzaneh’s highly anticipated Autumn/Winter collection named “We Were All Here At Once”, downstairs underneath the fully operating restaurant above saw her interpret an Iranian home atmosphere in which saw traditional floral and authentic Iranian paisley patterned furnitures throughout the rich in heritage, homelike space.
Models stood and sat in a relaxed manor, some even playing a games console, dressed in the immaculate tailored garments from Paria which also included a converse collaboration.
Standards were definitely set and secured in integral aspects such as the impeccable tailoring and contemporary design, real-life set design by Thomas Bird and admirable casting by Zoard Heuze and Rory Griffs’ Tide agency.
Here is the Paria Farzaneh A/W18 collection below.