[STYLE] LONDON FASHION WEEK MENS – DAY TWO REVIEW
London Fashion Week Men’s – Day Two Update
London fashion week men’s comes to an eventful end today and with the last selection of designers showcase their A/W18 collections at various locations stretching across London, we take a look at day two of runway shows and presentations
Day two saw the works from the designers Pheobe English MAN, J.JS LEE MAN, Lou Dolton, Kent & Curwen, chalayan, Daniel w Fletcher, Christopher Raeburn, Mischiko Koshnino, Alex Mullins, Kiko Kostadinov, Astrid Andersen, Wales Bonner and Charles Jeffery LOVERBOY.
Here’s an insight look at the designer runway shows and presentations from an eventful LFWM DAY 2.
Pheobe English MAN A/W18 Collection
The initally a womenswear luxury designer, took to the British Fashion Council Show space at 180, The Strand to display her Menswear A/W18 collection presentation.
Pheobe English, being acknowledged for her interpretation to define contemporary fashion with her garments doing more than justice. This collection saw strong looks that being emphasised by her selection of surface textures. Roughness, waviness and flat planes. A Sophisticated colour palate was demonstrated too, making use of cold blues, charcoal grey’s, clean beige and a vibrant red head to toe look. Here’s the looks below.
Lou Dalton Men’s A/W18
‘Where the cool kids hang’ environment was created by the royal college of art graduate at her LFWM A/18 presentation.
Her aim to create practical, adventurous and feel good menswear, Lou Dalton continues to collaborate with John Smedley on her knitwear pieces and can be seen in this collection. Inspired by the men past and present in her life, we gained the feeling that Dolton’s male encounteres were undoubtedly well dressed and stylish. Take a look at the Autumn/Winter collection below.
Established in the walls of Topman’s magical fashion East, yesterday we saw the eye brow raising looks from MAN A/W18. MAN being no stranger to a collaboration, creative minds by the names of Art School, Rottingdean bazaar and Stefan Cooke. “Non-binary gender paradise” brand from Art School reinvented the current outlook on fashion but more so pushed its limitations.
Soft tailoring was an evident reference throughout the runway show and collection. Pleated skirts, semi-transparent long sleeved torso’s and dresses, duchesse satin, uniform
suits and the boundaries of today’s fashion were most certainly pushed. Creative direction shared by Tom Barret and Edeth Loweth, Here’s the MAN A/W18 collection below.
Chalayan Men’s AW18
Fashion designer Hussain Chalayan is renowned for referencing cultural, social problems and anthropologic influences in his creative process and then are portrayed in his garments. Staying relevant in today’s modern world, Hussain’s show was titled “Périphérique”. The “Périphérique” is the circle stretching 16 miles around Paris, essentially what determines the urban to rural continuum and it’s social and cultural diversity.
The show at his Mayfair store displayed North African patterns, part completed shirts reinventing themselves from an under-layer with a Breton stripe. Sleek and simplistic cuts were portrayed throughout the runway show. Overcoats with excess fabric coming from the neck centre, full graphic long sleeve torso’s, surprising panels on a firmly shaped brown jacket with a tracksuit pant to match. Draped looks took our favour over the more fore-seen traditional fashion seen in this seasons collection. Here are the looks from the runway show.
Daniel W Fletchers Men’s A/W18
Reinventing the traditional in a method of his own was to be evident in Daniel w Fletcher’s AW18 collection hosted in Charlton house terrace, Pall Mall.
The designer swiftly graduating from Central saint martins in 2015, has been announced he is has been shortlisted for the prestigious LVMH prize. We think deservedly so.
Firmly shoulder sat, colour blocked jackets and overcoats in bold red and sophisticated black. Timeless oxford shirts accompanied by additional eyelets to be worn beyond its traditional function, silk tailored shorts, slim, straight trousers, vertical striped sleeves with a leather chest panel and cream and grey tones styled to reinforce an 80’s influence causing Fletcher to deliver once again a eye-opening collection.
Christopher Raeburn Men’s A/W18
As I entered the BFC show space, the strand. I was unknowingly stood next to somebody none the less being Christopher’s mother Dora (Nee Williams) for a while before the show started, who seemed beyond excited for her sons runway show. Christopher created an urgency for press, buyers and attendees, the show space capacity reaching its optimum, Christopher Raeburn delivered his contemporary Autumn/Winter 18 collection.
Raeburn draws inspiration from the deep oceans of the world. Diving further into the deep, Christopher fittingly titled his collection “IMMERSE sourcing active design with its purpose to protect those who obtain the garments and the planet. Scuba, deep water diving and futuristic uniform references were made central to the designers runway show.
His influence born from military uniform, its colourful aesthetic and purposeful function in the department of rescue. Royal Air Force helicopter winchman coveralls reinvented into a anorak, coat and trouser, reflective Velcro patches developed by Avery Denninson RBIS, Russian naval blankets reworked into a women’s overcoat, Danish naval blankets used to create a women’s bomber, men’s overcoat and infamous raebag. “REMADE” branding found plastered on numerous pieces was literal and self explanatory. Remade, Reduced, Recycled, Raeburn tape straps were exquisitely finished in a bold italic. In partnership with denim maker ‘Blackhorse Lane Ateliers once again to produce a highly quality, organic reversible over-shirts and denim
pieces with subtle “REMADE” detailing.
Collaborating with footwear brand Palladium again also to create a series of everyday, functional footwear with the obvious ‘A/E’ of Raeburn implemented in the palladium brand name design.
Here feature the looks from Christopher’s A/W18 runway show.
Alex Mullins A/W18
Experimenting with vibrant multi-coloured tie-die full face balaclava’s, large scaled cut formal suit wear, technicolour overcoats styled with neutral tones was the much anticipated outcome of Alex Mullins Autumn/Winter 18.
Lengthy beige and cream puffer coats were pieces were favourable pieces that caused everyone in the room to grip their cameras. The collection also included a washed purple corduroy parka and trouser two piece including a beige corduroy blazer and trouser, airy trousers with a tie waist belt, vertical Breton striped suits and all white wide collar jackets with shell buttons and trousers. Below displays Alex Mullins A/W18 at the BFC show space.
Kiko Kostadinov A/W18
After securing a collaboration with Japanese sportswear and athletic elite brand ASICS, Kiko Kostadinov returns to the Autumn/Winter runway in continued partnership with the brand as seen in his Spring/Summer 18 collection. Having partnered with Comme des garçons on a showroom installation for Paris fashion week and joining forces with Luxury and contemporary retailer Dover street market, it’s clear that London based designer Kiko has been productive and will continue to soar in popularity. This collection being named “obscured by Clouds” featured Kiko’s first ever womenswear capsule pieces consisting of first seen accessories including a handbag that was completely covered in stud beads and shined bright and is debatably the best accessory seen in the week of shows. Monochromatic dressed pieces were styled with the same shade of colour in ASICS footwear, colour blocked and irregular panels found on silk and surface textured jackets and trousers were showcased elegantly. The collection brought a diverse mixture of sport and minimal athleticism meeting formal luxury fashion. Here below is the Kiko Kostadinov Autumn/Winter 18 collection
Astrid Andersen AW18
Astrid Andersen reminisces the Buffalo era of London for her Autumn/Winter 18 collection. Located at the Topman showcase, the old Selfridges, Andersen and her team had created an underground youth nightlife environment at the event with dark red spotlights beaming from the ground up alongside flashing from above. The queue stretching far, of seated and standing guests the show created a lot of interest and attention from the oxford street public.
Garments created for the real, unpretentious street people of London, the danish designer works visual wonders with imagery by Mark Lebon of Jeny Howorth styled by Caroline Baker. Intentions to effectively inspire and educate, Anderesen reaches into design with no limitation nor authority throughout the collections runway show. Intuition situated at the heart of the Astrid Andersen AW18 show, she explored cross cultural and cross generational influence focused within that era of buffalo London.
Astrid continues to work in partnership with saga furs and Sophie Halette to reinforce ethical production and settling for only the highest in quality of finishes.
Technically fabricated puffer jackets, Bright jacquard, unpredictable tweeds, custom silks fabrics were intricately selected fabrics for this seasons show resulting in comprehensive and attractive fashion. Highlight pieces include a longlined golden athletic hood, blue tartan panelled, zipped tracksuit and most of all a oversized, padded blue plaid shirt with enlarged flap pockets located in either size. Here features Astrid Andersen men’s AW18.
Wales Bonner A/W18
The LVMH prize winner Grace Wales Bonner caused a comfortable silence as the anticipation of her AW18 menswear show for guests became overwhelming.
Isolated sailor played the narrative for this seasons show, as previously seen Grace Wales Bonner is not shy for a perceived narrative in her works. Elaborating on the isolated sailor narrative, the show delivered nautical jackets, waterproof hood reading “Creolite”, sou’wester hats collaboratively made with the as seen previously Stephan Jones Millinery.
Her designs and creations being unmistakably acknowledged and apparent in the contemporary Industry, Bonner showcased a series of finely details, sophisticated black conventional jackets, tailored towards a loose fit trousers featuring horn bottle buttons. Reinventing the double breasted suit with plaid trimmings, comfortably black draped hooded parka pleated at the wrists and mid section, cream padded baggy trousers with a combat pocket on the outside and a leather paint targeted jacket and it’s panel cut under the arm with paired leather bottoms are all items and looks that reigned supreme.
Charles Jeffery Loverboy A/W18
Charles Jeffery Loverboy after gaining soaring interest and success over his eccentric, loud, Alice in wonderland alike men’s aesthetics, Scottish born fashion designer Charles Jefferey took to the BFC show space to finish off the second day of London Fashion Week Men’s.
By far the most extravagant and interesting of the runway shows seen this season named tantrum and took inspiration from the book whilst the models walked displaying the latest garments, performers using body language and drama acted out their responses to the designs wether it being amazed or pretending to be physically sick. Problems and confrontations of developing in the modern world as queer was dramatically acted out by the performers and perceived emotions of anger, rage and sadness.
Take yourselves on a journey and see the Charles Jeffery Loverboy AW18 collection below.