Our extended adolescence, culture hints should be eternal, but youth is a journey that burns brightest for those determined to get to the other side. Teenage, that time for sampling, referencing and moodboarding subcultures past, is fun. But this season Marta wanted to bang the drum for women and the brilliance, sexuality and growing inner strength that comes after the questioning of youth.
Never forget the end goal of growing-up is to be thankful for everything on the other side of the rainbow that is female self-actualisation. This metaphorical celebratory rainbow inspired AW17s palette of lemon, magenta, neon orange, violet and fire engine red.
Marta chose tracks by Chaka Khan, Tina Turner and Sade, performers that know how to enjoy being women, not just play at being girls. Further, this season’s presentation will see Marta’s models wear heels for the first time—thanks Jimmy Choo. She feels an increasingly close relationship with her customers is a learning curve that is making her a better designer.
This collection combines the experimental: asymmetric puffa dresses come in a technical fabric, that “doesn’t feel like a technical fabric” with a block colour neo-minimalism, seen in super long wrap polo necks in velvet, tulle “skirt trousers” and a tailored boiler suit. The aim? Deep sexuality that doesn’t need underwired support or padding out, and womanhood that revels in smarts and confidence.